01
The navy suit, cut for you
A single-breasted, two-button navy suit in a mid-weight wool. Not black, not charcoal — navy reads considered in daylight and confident under boardroom lighting. Have the shoulder, waist, and trouser break altered until it looks like it was made for you, because at this level, it should be.
02
The mid-grey suit
Your second suit, in a plain mid-grey worsted. Between them, navy and grey cover 90% of what a senior man in London is asked to attend. Rotate them and both last twice as long.
03
The white shirt, in a proper cotton
Three of them. Poplin or fine twill, spread collar, no logo. A crisp white shirt is the one item where cheap is always visible — an executive shirt sits flat, holds its collar, and returns from the laundry looking like new.
04
The pale blue shirt
Two, in the same cut as your whites. Pale blue softens the face on camera and photographs better than white under office light. The default shirt for a day of back-to-back video calls.
05
Black oxford shoes
Plain-toe or cap-toe oxfords in polished black calf. Goodyear-welted, from a maker whose shoes you can resole in fifteen years. Worn with the navy suit; worn to anything that matters.
06
Brown derby or loafer
A mid-to-dark brown derby or penny loafer, again in proper leather. Pairs with the grey suit, with odd trousers, and with the smart-casual uniform on Fridays or when travelling.
07
The navy blazer
An unstructured navy blazer in wool, hopsack, or fresco. This is the single most versatile piece a senior man owns — worn over grey trousers to the office, over chinos to dinner, over a knit for weekend meetings.
08
Grey wool trousers
A pair of plain mid-grey wool trousers to wear with the blazer. This is the odd-trouser uniform that carries you through any day the suit is too much and the chino is too little.
09
A fine-gauge knit
A merino or cashmere crewneck or half-zip in navy, charcoal, or oatmeal. Worn under the blazer in winter, or on its own for a considered smart-casual look. Never a hoodie; never a logo.
10
The overcoat
A single-breasted overcoat in navy or camel, cut to sit just above the knee, in a wool or wool-cashmere blend. In a London winter, this is the coat the room sees before it sees you.
11
A quiet leather belt and a proper watch
One belt in polished black, one in dark brown, matching the shoes. A watch on a leather strap or a discreet metal bracelet — legible, not loud. Accessories that pass unnoticed are doing their job.
12
The leather holdall or briefcase
A single, well-made leather bag in a colour that lives happily with both shoes. It travels with you to every meeting, every airport, every offsite. Bought once, carried for a decade.